Despite some pretty amazing press recently, not everyone has yet heard of Mexico’s burgeoning wine country Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California. After the reports of many friends and reading rave reviews of Valle de Guadalupe’s wineries and dining options in the New York Times and Sunset Magazine, we had to check it out for ourselves since it’s so close to our home town in San Diego. And we ended up eating our way along the Ruta de Vino (wine route).
Deckman’s parfait of yellowtail ceviche, with layers of crema, avocado, crushed tortilla and sweet tender yellowtailValle de Guadalupe Restaurants
A sampling of those we tried:
Deckman’s – This was my favorite of the places we sampled, because I loved the rustic outdoor dining spaces and delicious food. It was amazing to watch the outdoor kitchens prepare delicious roasted meats and vegetables, while the dishes they turned out were truly elegant and photo-worthy.
Corazon de Tierra – A gorgeous dining room with a fantastic menu and celebrated chefs, Corazon is a place I strongly urge you to just choose the 8-course tasting menu, which is paired with wines. Everything we tasted was out of this world, and all fresh vegetables and herbs are grown right outside in the restaurant’s organic gardens.
Floor to ceiling glass windows of Corazon de Tierra overlook their organic vegetable gardensFinca Altozano – Another long time favorite, this restaurant is more like a compound. Completely open air with a covered dining room, Finca is the darling of the Valle and brainchild of celebrated Chef Javier Placencia. Both rustic and refined, it seemed like cowboy chic with amazingly intricate dishes. Delicious and beautiful.
La Cocina de Doña Esthela – Down-home family style Mexican food, and probably the best you have ever tasted. We went for breakfast and the lines were already forming – our huevos rancheros with fresh warm handmade tortillas were out of this world.
More traditional than some others, Doña Esthela’s has it going onHacienda Guadalupe Restaurante – We tried Hacienda for breakfast, and loved the chilaquiles (scrambled eggs, tortillas, salsa and cheese with optional carne asada or carnitas mixed in). We also loved the strong coffee and complimentary baked goods they brought to the table immediately, curbing my hangry self to the point where I could hold a conversation.
And there are many more we want to try, so a list is developing for our next trip.
More on Wineries
Read my blog post on our Valle de Guadalupe Winery Tour for more information.
Where to Stay
Here’s a few places to check out:
The hotel rooms at Encuentro de Guadalupe are Leed Certified eco-villas with unparalleled views of the ValleHacienda Guadalupe Hotel – Probably the largest in the Valle with 16 rooms, this place looks the most like we would expect in the US.
Encuentro – Stunning. Just stunning. These pods perch on the rocky hilltops overlooking the Valle.
Adobe de Guadalupe – One of the original and most established. Owned by Americans who live onsite.
La Villa del Valle – Conveniently next door to one of the very best restaurants, Corazon de Tierra (see above comments).
Casa 8 – Eight B&B units with a central dining villa, all near the gorgeous Bruma winery and 5-star restaurant.
Rocas de Valle – Lots of choices here from adobe huts to 2-bedroom glamping tents.
Getting There
There is a reason they call it Baja California – it is literally an extension of California with an international border drawn across it. Valle de Guadalupe is an easy drive from San Diego, and took us about 1.5 hours to reach. Passing through the San Ysidro border crossing, we entered Tijuana and navigated to the Toll Road which provides the quickest and smoothest highway to Ensenada.
Yes, any navigation system works here, including Google Maps and Waze. If you don’t have the North America plan with your mobile carrier, call and add unlimited calling/data/text for the days you are visiting – very easy and inexpensive. Signal strength is strong, and many locations offer free wifi.
Once you arrive in Valle de Guadalupe, be advised that almost all the roads are unpaved and some are pretty rough. Our friends drove their SUV, which was sturdy and comfortable for the bumpy dirt roads. We saw plenty of BMWs and Mercedes driving around, so it can be done (but I don’t recommend it). There are no streetlights, making the nighttime drive to some locations an adventure in which you will be glad for that navigation system.
We tried Uber one night to reach our dinner destination, and it was pretty wonky. I do not recommend it – call a taxi if you prefer not to drive. We made friends with a local guy who ended up driving us around a couple of nights for $20.
