Fort Lauderdale for West Coasters: Come for the Water, Not Just the Beach - 2 Dads with Baggage

Fort Lauderdale for West Coasters: Come for the Water, Not Just the Beach

Growing up on the West Coast spoiled me for beach vacations. It takes more than palm trees and a pretty stretch of sand to convince me to fly across the country for another one. As I started looking at the things to do in Fort Lauderdale, those that caught my attention didn’t involve sitting on the sand. Water shapes this part of Florida, from canals running through neighborhoods to the Everglades stretching west of town. And the sea is only part of that story.
Fort Lauderdale Beach is the center of activity in the area (photo: Visit Greater Fort Lauderdale)
That’s what drew me here. Greater Fort Lauderdale has more than 300 miles of navigable waterways. Boats slip behind restaurants, marinas pop up everywhere, and huge yachts sit outside waterfront homes. After a couple of days, I was paying as much attention to the canals as the Atlantic. For this West Coaster, that was a big discovery and reason to visit Greater Fort Lauderdale.

Things to Do in Fort Lauderdale

There are dozens of reasons to visit Greater Fort Lauderdale, as evidenced by the number of gorgeous hotels, restaurants, and attractions built to serve travelers. But water is the unifying theme, and if you love the water you are bound to love this region in all its forms.

Greater Fort Lauderdale includes several beach communities including Deerfield Beach (photo; Visit Greater Fort Lauderdale)

Get Out Into the Everglades

Sawgrass Recreation Park was one of the highlights of my visit, and I knew it quickly after climbing aboard the Everglades Tour Boat. I’ve wanted to tour the Everglades on an airboat since I was a little kid, and finally got my chance here.

The Everglades Tour at Sawgrass Recreation Park is a great way to see alligators and other critters up close and personal (photo: Sawgrass Recreation Park)

The park sits west of Fort Lauderdale, where development begins to thin and the Everglades take over. My 40-minute airboat tour headed into the shallow wetlands in search of alligators, turtles, fish and birds. The scenery looks simple at first: miles of sawgrass, murky water and a huge amount of sky. Give it a few minutes and your eyes start catching movement everywhere.

The airboat is not subtle as it glides across the shallow waterways. The engine is roaring as the boat accelerates, and suddenly you’re skimming across open water with the wind coming at you hard.  Conversation is pointless. We slowed in narrower areas to scan the edges for wildlife, and within minutes our captain began pointing out the alligators. Some lurked in the grasses, while others pulled up on muddy banks to get some sun. Then there were the ones hovering under the water with just eyes and long snouts showing. There were a LOT of them.

An alligator lurks in the shallow Everglades near Greater Fort Lauderdale.

This is one of the things to do in Fort Lauderdale I would recommend most strongly to anyone arriving from the West Coast. The Everglades felt completely unfamiliar to me, which was exactly what I wanted after flying across the country. Still, it’s close enough that I could spend the morning out there and still be back in Fort Lauderdale in time for lunch.

Follow the City’s Waterways

Back in town, Fort Lauderdale’s canals are part of the city’s regular scenery. The Water Taxi connects neighborhoods, restaurants and attractions while cruising past waterfront homes, landmarks, marinas and enormous rich-person yachts. Its network has more than 30 stops, so it works as sightseeing and transportation at the same time.

I had planned to use it to get to dinner one evening from the hotel- just a quick walk around the corner to hop on. Then the rain started. By late afternoon, the whole boat-to-dinner idea was finished, along with any hope of arriving anywhere looking remotely put together.

Water Taxi service runs through the waterways of Greater Fort Lauderdale (photo: Water Taxi)

The Water Taxi remains high on my list for a return visit because the canals reveal so much about Fort Lauderdale. They show up behind buildings, beside restaurants and between neighborhoods, with boats constantly moving through town. Among the things to do in Fort Lauderdale, taking the Water Taxi may be the simplest way to see the city. Of course, as soon as I got to dinner the rain stopped, the clouds cleared, and a beautiful evening sky appeared overhead.

Try a Very Different Kind of Spa Day

Pause Studio Fort Lauderdale was another surprise and one of my favorite stops. My Taste of Pause experience included flotation therapy, LED light therapy, contrast therapy and cryotherapy. More water features, but wellness focused this time.

Cryotherapy got my attention quickly. There isn’t much time to overthink extreme cold once you’re standing there experiencing it at around 150 degrees below zero. I donned mitts, socks, a beanie and goggles before getting into the chamber for the suggested 3-minute freeze. I lasted two minutes, which I consider remarkable for this wimpy California boy.

Flotation therapy went the other direction. Once I settled into the hyper-salinated water, everything became quiet. No phone, no schedule, no one asking where I wanted to have dinner. I actually floated, listening to mellow music and clearing my thoughts completely for 30 whole minutes. It was like getting a break from myself, and I vowed to do that more often.

Floatation Therapy at Pause Studio Fort Lauderdale was a great way to relax into my visit.

Travel days can get ridiculously full, especially on a hosted trip where every meal and activity has a time attached to it. Spending part of the morning doing absolutely nothing in a flotation tank felt almost decadent. I walked out feeling better than when I arrived and wishing I had booked more time.

Spend an Afternoon at Bonnet House

Bonnet House Museum & Gardens offers a glimpse of Fort Lauderdale before the high-rises and mega-yachts. The estate began as a wedding gift in 1919, when Hugh Taylor Birch gave oceanfront land to his daughter Helen and her husband, artist Frederic Clay Bartlett. Frederic later returned with his second wife, Evelyn. Together, they filled the house with art, murals, and the kind of personal touches that make the place feel wonderfully eccentric.

The original owners of Bonnett House were artists, and their works are on display in rooms of the museum to this day.

The grounds are a big part of the reason to visit. Bonnet House preserves 35 acres of native barrier-island habitat in a part of Fort Lauderdale that is now heavily developed. Evelyn was also an obsessive orchid collector, and that legacy continues in a collection of more than 3,000 specimens. Walking the paths through palms, mangroves and tropical gardens, I kept forgetting I was just steps away from Fort Lauderdale Beach.

Historic Bonnett House in Fort Lauderdale includes lush grounds and furnished buildings.

The 7,220-square-foot house still feels surprisingly personal. It includes a series of rooms opening toward a central courtyard and enough eccentric bric-a-brac to remind you that artists actually lived here.

Eating Around Fort Lauderdale

As with any seaside destination, Greater Fort Lauderdale is not without great restaurants. Most feature seafood, and with the ocean and waterways so close, diners can be assured there are many fresh-caught options from both ocean and freshwater sources. Even if fish is not a favorite, the range of options is considered here and I had the opportunity to sample several great spots in the area.

Del Mar Restaurant features dining on the sand in Fort Lauderdale (photo: Del Mar Restaurant)

Del Mar

Del Mar was easily my favorite meal of the trip, and the restaurant starts working on you before you ever see a menu. The entrance runs down a long, dramatic hallway glowing with lantern light. This automatically creates one of those moments when everybody instinctively reaches for a phone. It sets the mood beautifully, then opens into a restaurant that takes full advantage of its location directly on the Atlantic.

The outdoor area is spectacular. Some seating is literally in the sand, with lounge furniture and fire pits facing the ocean. We sat at a table under cover, completely open along the sides. The breeze rolled through during dinner and the water stayed in view. Weather permitting, this is the table I would request for seating. The interior dining room is handsome too, with a lush, polished Mediterranean feel. But sitting outside with the ocean just beyond the table is what made the evening memorable for me.

Del Mar Restaurant serves delicious food and drinks right on the sand in Fort Lauderdale (photo: Del Mar Restaurant)

Then there is the food, which thankfully keeps up with the scenery. The menu leans Mediterranean, drawing on the cooking of Southern Europe with plenty of seafood, fresh produce, cheeses, olive oil and warm spices. We enjoyed Charred Octopus and Lamb Meatballs as starters, and for mains the Lobster Agnolotti and the Ribeye were out of this world.

I eat at enough restaurants while traveling to know that a gorgeous room can sometimes do a lot of heavy lifting for an average meal. Del Mar earned the recommendation on both counts. The food was excellent, and that oceanfront setting is why I’d make another reservation.

Grilled Octopus is a signature dish at Del Mar Restaurant in Fort Lauderdale (photo: Del Mar Restaurant)

Sunness Supper Club

Sunness Supper Club takes its inspiration from the classic American supper club. It offers comfort food, cocktails, live entertainment and an upstairs speakeasy. It has a social, nightlife-driven personality, so this is the place I would choose when dinner is part of a longer evening out. The food was delicious, including the best Wedge Salad I think I have ever tasted.

The dishes served at Sunness Supper Club are colorful and delicious. (photo: Sunness Supper Club)

Takato

Takato sits close to the ocean and brings Japanese and Korean influences together in an indoor-outdoor setting. Executive Chef Taek Lee draws from his own heritage, and the breezy location near Fort Lauderdale Beach makes it an easy lunch stop. My sushi rolls were delicious, especially the Spicy Hotate Maki with blue crab and spicy garlic aioli. Another standout was the ice cream sushi dessert wrapped in rice crispies with chocolate dipping sauce, which anyone dining here must save room to try.

Takato Restaurant serves the freshest of seafood, including delicious sushi (photo: Takato Restaurant)

The Greenhouse

The Greenhouse is the restaurant at The Garden Hotel & Resort, where I stayed. The menu combines American cooking with French and Mediterranean influences, and the open-air terrace works well for lunch or a casual drink. If you go, try the Mezze Platter with its trio of dips – so delicious.

Greenhouse Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in a bright and airy space. (photo: Garden Hotel & Resort)

Casablanca Cafe

Casablanca Cafe has the most historic setting of the restaurants I visited, dating back to the 1920s, with original details including a working fireplace, wood ceiling beams, a spiral staircase and terrazzo floors. The menu mixes New American and Mediterranean influences, with an oceanfront location that gives it an old Fort Lauderdale feel. I was craving a steak, and my filet here was prepared perfectly. It was accompanied by delicious Blue Cheese Potato Gratin and Creamed Spinach, which I gobbled up greedily.

Casablanca Cafe is a historic beachfront restaurant serving delicious food for decades in Fort Lauderdale. (photo: Casablanca Cafe)

The Garden Hotel & Resort is an Easy Stay

The Garden Hotel & Resort was my choice for this visit, and its location worked well for a short trip with a full schedule. The beach is nearby, and the property has three outdoor pools, a putting green, outdoor gathering areas and its own restaurant, The Greenhouse. Complimentary electric shuttle service also makes short local trips easier.

Spacious rooms at Garden Hotel & Resort are newly refurbished with clean lines and natural light. (photo: Garden Hotel & Resort )

I spent most of my days out exploring, then returned to the hotel when I wanted downtime and some AC therapy. The pools were especially welcome in the middle of a Florida summer. Here, even a short walk can make air conditioning feel like a luxury.

The Greenhouse came in handy for breakfast each morning before starting the day. This hotel worked great as a relaxed home base with quick access to the beach and the rest of Greater Fort Lauderdale.

The main pool area at Garden Hotel & Resort is lush with plantings and surrounded by comfortable lounges.

Why Fort Lauderdale Works for a West Coaster

I still wouldn’t tell someone from California to fly across the country because Florida has beaches. We already know what it feels like to spend an afternoon beside the ocean. Instead, I would suggest they look at the things to do in Fort Lauderdale that lead somewhere beyond the sand. Take an airboat into the Everglades, explore the canals, spend some time floating at Pause, and make a dinner reservation at Del Mar. Those were the experiences that gave the trip special personality for me.

The Atlantic will still be there when I want it, but the canals made me curious enough to want another visit. Next time, I’m getting on that Water Taxi.

The beach is still a main attraction in Fort Lauderdale.
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