Palm Springs is one of my happy places, and I have been enjoying this desert town since I was a teenager. Now many years later, this photogenic and energetic place remains contemporary and relevant even as it settles into its throwback generation. Modern Palm Springs is celebrating all the history that has made it so popular. At the same time, the people and places that lent their creativity to the legendary Palm Springs ethos have paved the way for new leadership in hospitality, cuisine and design.
There is something magic about the green desert surrounded by mountains in Palm Springs.Over the decades, generations continue to visit Palm Springs on repeat, falling deeply in love with this special place. This is a town that pays homage to its own history while continually reinventing itself, and people love to support a stalwart survivor. Strolling the streets of Old Palm Springs, visitors can celebrate that everything old is new again. And again, and again.
And somehow it all still works in Palm Springs’ favor.
Palm Springs Rooted in Design
It’s no secret that Palm Springs has long been a beacon for modernism and mid-century design. Homes, landmarks, retail outlets and many other gathering spots owe their backgrounds to the great architects who have mainstreamed this design aesthetic. Design giants like William Krisel, Richard Neutra, Donald Wexler and Albert Frey created homes featuring clean lines, flat planes, glass walls and indoor/outdoor living. Add vibrant pops of color synonymous with the space age and the 1960s pop art movement, and a signature look unique to Palm Springs is born. There is even an annual event centered on this legacy called Palm Springs Modernism Week, with tours and lectures open to the ticketed public.
Palm Springs is full of mid-century modern architecture. (photo: Greater Palm Springs Visitors Bureau)But the roots go far deeper than modernism. Before the 1960s explosion of popular culture, Palm Springs had its beginnings in Hacienda style and Spanish Colonial Revival influence. These design elements lend themselves to the older charms this city displays so vividly. The look is characterized by white stucco walls, red tile roofs, carved wood accents, and deep magenta bougainvillea flowers draping over trellises and archways.
These unique and singular looks somehow combine and peacefully coexist in Palm Springs. With this comes businesses, styles and fashions that are bright, bold and sporty. Think of it as a uniquely Southern California version of Florida’s Palm Beach country club chic. Lilly Pulitzer meets Jonathan Adler, so to speak.
The heat of the Palm Springs desert calls for a dip in the pool.Modern Palm Springs Reborn
For Palm Springs, everything old really is new again. For those of us that have been visiting for decades, it’s a welcome return. There are so many interesting new spots opening in downtown Palm Springs that celebrate the original businesses that pioneered the neighborhood. Most of these either occupy historic locations or are positioned right next to legacy operations that have never left. To be sure, there are enough familiar landmarks in downtown Palm Springs to conjure find memories in the older generation. Just as relevant, the area is attracting new generations respectful of its origins and ready to experience it all anew.
On a recent visit, we counted many highlights and examples of this truism in modern Palm Springs.
There is nothing like pulling into Palm Springs on Highway 111 to be greeted by this welcome sign and gorgeous backdrop.Historic Lodging in Palm Springs
Palm Springs and the entire Coachella Valley area possess remarkably well-preserved and improved historic hospitality offerings. Dating back to the beginnings of its popularity as a resort destination in the 1920s, the Greater Palm Springs area has played host to Hollywood celebrities, Presidents, sports luminaries and an array of pop stars. Along with them came fun lovers and sun worshippers looking for a warm vacation spot to spend a few days, weeks, or even months. There are a multitude of accommodation options, and several have strong historical ties.
Casa Cody is a charming place to stay in downtown Palm Springs.Casa Cody
Distinctive in its origins as the longest continually running hotel in Palm Springs, Casa Cody enjoys a fantastic downtown location. The hotel is walkable from the main shopping and dining areas. Originally established in the 1920s by Harriet Cody, it began as a modest desert home before gradually growing into a hideaway for artists, creatives, and early Hollywood figures. Over the decades, the property expanded, with cottages and adobe buildings added over time. Bougainvilleas continue to bloom in year-round riots of color, draped against wood beams and terracotta tile roofs. The hotel offers the feel of a humble hacienda rather than a polished resort.
That sense of ease carries into the rooms, where no two spaces feel exactly alike. With 30 rooms, suites, and standalone homes, the layout is intimate and residential. All of the rooms open directly to the outdoors. Many include patios, kitchens, and separate living spaces that make it easy to settle in for a few days. The grounds are filled with citrus trees, quiet corners, and mountain views, creating a setting that encourages guests to slow down and enjoy the relaxed Palm Springs vibe.
The lobby at Casa Cody is comfy and residential in feel and vibe.It’s easy to recharge here after a great night’s sleep, with coffee and a solid continental breakfast buffet laid out each morning. From there, it’s a short walk to one of the swimming pools to cozy up on a lounge chair with a great book. When the sun gets a little toasty, a dip into the cooling pool waters is the ideal reset.
Nightly rates at Casa Cody generally range from $350-$550, depending on seasonality and availability.
The lap pool at Casa Cody offers stunning mountain views.Korakia Pensione
Styled in a Moorish/Moroccan theme, Korakia Pensione offers a bit of Mediterranean chic against the mountains in downtown Palm Springs. Although this property is hardly new, owners continually find ways to improve the experience and add new features. With buildings spanning both sides of a quiet street, Korakia is a kid-free zone with lots of history. The Moroccan house on the mountain side was built in 1924, and across the street the Mediterranean house is from the 1930s. With the addition of the 1918 adobe Orchard House, they fit together like a village. Meandering walkways, desert landscaping and craggy stone walls further set the tone for its 28 relaxing rooms, all unique in their own way.
Rates at Korakia start at around $450/night.
The Moroccan courtyard in the main lobby entrance at Korakia Pensione.La Quinta Resort & Club
Also not in Palm Springs, La Quinta Resort & Club is worthy of a call out here because of its historical significance to the area. The worst travesty of brand infringement has plagued the venerable La Quinta Resort since a downscale hotel chain was founded using its same name. However, this sprawling luxury resort established in 1926 is a far cry from ordinary.
La Quinta offers 718 rooms total, with a mix of standalone casitas and larger villas that give it a distinctly residential, spread-out feel. A signature spa, tennis facilities, landmark restaurants and a whopping 42 swimming pools strengthen the resort property’s country club feel. The resort first opened as a quiet desert retreat drawing visitors seeking privacy, warm weather, and a sense of escape from city life. It set the tone for development of the Coachella Valley between its location and downtown Palm Springs. Over time, it has expanded into a large-scale resort. However it’s maintained its distinctive adobe architecture and connection to early Hollywood era roots.
La Quinta’s nightly rate varies greatly depending on room size and season, ranging from $275 – $1,200+.
La Quinta Resort offers 42 pools throughout the property. (photo: La Quinta Resort)Contemporary Eats Downtown
Several new eateries have opened in Palm Springs, joining favorites that have been in operation for decades.
Beaton’s at Bar Cecil
A hotspot within a hotspot, Beaton’s is the newest jewel box located within the massive success of Bar Cecil. Already difficult to secure reservations, Beaton’s is an explosion of color, flavors and design. Red on red on red is the plush design theme here. The night we dined, it was packed with well-dressed visitors wanting great food and an Instagram-worthy scene. It’s all that and more, with the substance to back it up. Craft cocktails are served alongside elevated bar snacks that will delight. We suggest Pigs in a Blanket, Deviled Eggs, and the late-night Bar Burger. We’ll be returning here for sure.
Beaton’s at Bar Cecil is a vision in red, and a wonderful evening experience.Ash & Vine
Tucked behind La Plaza in a restored 1915 bungalow, Ash & Vine is making a name for itself as a cozy destination for delicious and unpretentious food and drinks. Tiny in comparison to many mega restaurants on nearby Palm Canyon Drive, this special place has few tables and many accolades. Try the Grilled Cheese Dumplings served with a spoonful of tomato soup, and Burrata with Strawberries and Pistachios, both standouts in taste and aesthetics. We predict this place will soon be the hottest ticket in town.
Ash & Vine’s take on grilled cheese and tomato soup is a delicious starter.Elmer’s
A stalwart breakfast standard for more than 60 years, Elmer’s Restaurant is your grandparents’ divey breakfast spot. It’s never stopped being so uncool that it is actually cool. Breakfast is served all day, fast and delicious, and yes, they also serve lunch and dinner. But that’s not the reason to go. Menu items like their famous German Pancakes and Chicken-Fried Steak and Eggs dominate, along with regular favorites like omelettes and waffles. Lots of coffee after a late night carousing, and the day is already won.
A breakfast institution in Palm Springs, Elmer’s has been operating here since the 1960s.Date Shakes at Hadley Fruit Orchards
Date shakes trace back to the early development of the Coachella Valley’s date farming industry in the 1920s. Established in 1931, Hadley Fruit Orchards became a well-known stop for travelers, helping cement the date shake as a defining regional treat. Driving in and out of Palm Springs, we stopped here every single time. Date shakes in Palm Springs are traditionally made by blending locally grown Medjool dates with vanilla ice cream and milk to create a thick, naturally sweet drink. The resulting concoction offers a rich caramel flavor without the need for added sugar. There is nothing like it.
Neighborhood Tours of Palm Springs
A trip to modern Palm Springs is not complete without a quick spin through some of its notable neighborhoods. There are several ways to enjoy the many histories of modern Palm Springs. Organized bus tours, self-driving tours, bicycle tours and even easy walkabouts are all available. Neighborhoods like Old Las Palmas, Deepwell Estates, Movie Colony, and the Historic Tennis Club are areas of note. All of these surround the downtown Palm Springs area.
A bike ride is just the ticket for touring the historic neighborhoods of downtown Palm Springs.On a recent visit, we had so much fun renting ebikes from Big Wheel Tours and tooling around town. We rode through neighborhoods established long ago, many with mid-century homes that look amazing from the street. Riding up towards the mountains, we past Smoke Tree Stables. They’ve been offering riders trail tours into the desert canyons since the 1920s, and I have fond memories. Zipping back into town, we rode past the Palm Springs Art Museum and the famous giant statue of Marilyn Monroe.
If an organized tour is your preference, Big Wheels offers several different guided tours. Rides can take you to see the homes of Hollywood celebrities past and present, or architectural features of neighborhoods. There are also bus tours if you prefer to relax in comfy air-conditioned coaches. For that experience, try Palm Springs Celebrity Tours.
Other Things to Do in Palm Springs
Looking for other ways to enjoy all the things the Coachella Valley has to offer? Take it from someone who has been visiting here since 1977. There are a lot of options to stay entertained in modern Palm Springs.
We bumped along down the dirt road tracing the lines of the San Andreas Fault on our Red Jeep Tour.Learn about about quakes and shakes at the Red Jeep Earthquake Tour of the San Andreas Fault.
Visit Palm Springs with the family and enjoy fun vacation time, spring break or any time of the year.
Visit Greater Palm Springs also offers several lists of things to do in the area, based on interests. Check that out here.
The entrance to Ash & Vine is tucked into a collection of bungalows in downtown Palm Springs